WHAT IS ORGANIC FOOD?

Organic food is produced according to a set of principles and standards concerning such issues as pesticides, additives, animal welfare and sustainability. There are different forms of organic, some stricter than others. The main accreditation body to look for in the UK is the Soil Association.

Sales of organic food in the UK have increased dramatically in recent years. According to the latest Soil Association Organic Market Report, published in 2006, sales were up by 30 per cent on the previous year. Supermarkets are expanding their organic ranges, but a growing number of consumers are turning directly to the farmers for their organic food. Sales through box schemes, farmers' markets and farm shops rose by approximately 11 per cent in 2005 and are now worth around £125m a year. Marks & Spencer, Sainsbury's and Waitrose have been praised by the Soil Association for stocking more organic food from UK farmers and reducing the amount they import.

Patrick Holden, Director of the Soil Association, believes supermarkets must support local producers and says: "The organic market is thriving and is being driven by consumers who want to buy fresh, local, good-quality seasonal food direct from the farmer. The leading supermarkets must take note of the public's wishes and increase the amount of locally sourced organic food in store, which should come from small and medium-sized farms."

Is organic food 'better'?

Many people turn to organic food because of concerns about pesticides. Around 350 pesticides are permitted in conventional farming and the Soil Association says an estimated 4.5billion litres of them are used annually. While there are Government rules for pesticide residues, they still end up in our food and nobody knows the long-term implications of their combined effect.

The organic movement aims for food that is produced as 'naturally' as possible, free from trans-fats, GMOs (genetically modified organisms) and most additives. The Soil Association encourages high standards of animal welfare and campaigns against the misuse of antibiotics for growth promotion, for example. Soil Association accreditation guarantees that animals have more living space. As for nutritional superiority, more research needs to be done in this area but in a 2001 review of 41 studies; organic crops were all shown to have higher levels of Vitamin C, magnesium and phosphorus.

In terms of the environmental benefits, organic farms naturally promote biodiversity as the lack of herbicides and pesticides encourages wildlife. Green and animal manures are used to enrich the soil, whereas some intensive farming methods result in soil erosion.

Does organic food taste better? The best organic producers are committed to quality and their food is outstanding, but carefully produced conventionally grown food may well taste better than mass-produced organic imports.

Unanswered questions

Some people who turn to organic food have an almost blind belief in its superiority - even believing it is intrinsically 'healthier'. Organic farmers and food producers command a higher price because of the label and not necessarily because their produce is well-made and tasty. Some conventional growers say their hi-tech pest control and animal medication is better than the low-tech methods used in organic farming, and that in livestock farming this has implications for animal welfare.

As organic food becomes big business, some of its green credentials can become diluted. Take air miles. While 66 per cent of the organic primary produce sold in supermarkets is UK sourced, with dairy products especially likely to come from this country, much of the organic fruit and salad we buy is brought in from overseas, as supermarkets struggle to keep up with consumer demand.

The Soil Association itself has recently been at the centre of controversy over its standards. Its decision to license organic farmed salmon was criticized by many and caused a split in the organic movement, with some insisting that farmed salmon goes against organic principles, undermining its high standards of animal welfare and environmental responsibility. According to the Soil Association, however, responsible fish farming is a necessity given increasingly depleted fish stocks, and the association is keen to emphasize the differences between organic and conventionally farmed salmon.

As a broad response to such questions, organic systems offer a guarantee of certain standards. It is then up to the consumer to decide what is 'good' and what is 'less good'. From a farmer's perspective, to go organic is not an easy option. It is likely that most organic producers are part of the movement in the true spirit of sustainability and good food. If you shop directly from producers it helps you work out who you trust.

Why does organic food cost more?

Organic production is slower, more labour-intensive and generally has lower yields than conventional methods. A Morgan Stanley study has shown that organic food can be up to 63 per cent more expensive, but the premium is usually lower, especially if you are buying local, seasonal food directly from the producer. Furthermore, Government subsidies have focused on mainstream farming, artificially lowering the price of conventional foods. And there are hidden costs brought about by the use of pesticides in conventional farming. We pay to tackle the pollution of our water supplies, caused by artificial fertilizers, at a cost of about £120m a year, through our taxes and higher water bills rather than at the checkout.

The organic consumer

The more you know about the overall benefits of organic food, the better value it seems. The Soil Association's two websites (see right) answer many questions. Their annual buyers' guide, as well as Lynda Brown's book The Shopper's Guide to Organic Food are two ways to hook into local information.

Box schemes provide a weekly box of seasonal fruit and vegetables and guarantee a market for producers, enabling the smaller ones in particular to exist. Try to find one that is as local as possible. Farm shops and farmers' markets, which often have organic stalls, are another excellent way to learn about what is going on in your area and get to know the producers. Their fruit and vegetables should be freshly picked which makes a big difference to its quality. 'Local, fresh and seasonal' is part of the spirit of the true organic movement, rather than heavily packaged imports of processed foods.

With thanks to the BBC 2007

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